The minutes counter neither crept nor jumped instantly, but moved from one market to the next during the last two seconds of each elapsing minute. During our test, the start, stop and reset action was precise, and the vertical-clutch engaged the elapsed seconds hand as intended by its designer, with no jumps or shutter.

When it is pulled out, the crown is solid, with no play.Īs is often the case with vertical-clutch chronographs, the start button required more pressure than the stop and reset functions. The crown can be pulled out only from the bottom using a fingernail. The pushers are mounted on top of a substantial crown guard, so they limit access to the crown from the sides. The elongated chronograph pushers have an organic, asymmetric shape that makes them easy to manipulate. (Because it has facelets, it is not a cabochon, which is defined as a smooth stone.) The seven-sided crown is stylish but slightly slippery, though the winding action is so smooth and easy you will not mind.

The crown bears Cartier’s trademark deep blue synthetic spinel crystal. The polished crown and chronograph pushers contrast with the brushed case. The outside edge of each lug exhibits a polished bevel that catches the light. The satin finish on the case is very fine and evenly applied. The case and bracelet make a good start, Cartier manufactures them itself, and the execution stands with the best in this price range. We’ll see how those claims hold up in the real world. It is powered by Cartier’s first automatic-winding, in-house chronograph movement, and the brand makes strong claims about the benefits of its twin-barrel design – claims that extend to other models further up the ladder that share this feature. It will be seen more often, by more people. In its more accessible permutations, it will serve as an initial stepping stone into the world of Cartier, and it will grace more wrists than its higher-priced siblings. The introduction could almost have gone unnoticed, overshadowed by Cartier’s haute horlogerie offerings, but the chronograph has its own unique importance. This Year’s SIHH saw the launch of the Calibre de Cartier chronograph. Done right, they have what it takes to become, dare we say it, icons. Their popularity endows them with disproportionate influence within a brand’s range. In the world of watches, chronographs grab the spotlight.

Calibre de cartier glow in the dark